1950's- The invention and explosion of the Atomic bomb influenced this period with designs of starbursts and sprays of diamonds. Jewelry was classified into day (gold with no adorning stones) and night (diamonds) wear. Florentine finishes, twisted rope, mesh, piercing, fluting, foxtail chain and braided wire became popular textures for gold jewelry. Cultured strings of pearls became fashionable for daywear and turquoise, coral and amethyst were the in vogue colors and gemstones for the period.
1960's- Few restrictions in the groovy 60s brought a hybrid of gold, platinum, silver, natural gemstones and geode crystals. Faceted gems and round brilliant cut diamonds along with organic, abstract and jagged shapes dominated metalwork.
1970's- In this feminist era, women saw fit to purchase their own jewelry and define their own style. New and different materials were used such as wood, ivory, rock crystal and coral were incorporated into jewelry design. The 50s austerity of diamond daywear and nightwear was abolished and diamonds again saw the light of day. Other prominent stones were onyx, lapis lazuli and coral and other non-precious materials. Theme bracelets or charm bracelets are introduced, with add-on attributes and purchased separately.
1980-1990's- The affluent 80s brought a demand for sparkle, glamour and glitzy "Dynasty" and "Dallas" type of ornamentation. This was countered by the elegant Princess Diana's marriage which saw refined taste and grace reemerging. Like most fashion of the 90s, jewelry design was produced in many retro forms, a collection of times past. Aquamarine, tanzanite, colored pearls and silver were incorporated into sophisticated or chunky styles. Many teenagers began wearing multiple earrings in both or either ears, and Punk Rock influence was seen with the advent of safety pins and other household items being used as jewelry. Body piercing came into vogue, drawing unknowingly to most wearers from African origin. Bangle bracelets of rubber were popularized by Madonna and other pop icons as the global fascination with fame and superstars began to trump obsession with royalty.
2000- present day- Hybridizing metals and non-precious materials became fashionable with new techniques and designers collaborating colored diamonds or pearls with rubber, stainless steel and even plastic. Precious Metal Clay (PMC) is employed along with synthetic gemstones for unique, new designs.
Traditional gold wedding bands have been replaced by the platinum wedding band as the ring of choice for matrimonial wear. Sea glass has become a popular material in jewelry design. Tough resins of adaptable, colorful and waterproof materials are increasingly used as technology makes them available. The anklet has become a popular choice for adornment and is seen everywhere around the world. Black pearls have become highly desirable in jewelry pieces and Kokichi Mikimoto is the leading designer and harvester of these gems. The rolex watch is also a status symbol for the rich and famous. Depression-Era Bakelite has come full circle and is enjoying a Renaissance in modern jewelry wear with polka dot or multicolored bangle bracelets and pins of butterscotch and pea green colors.
These pieces, although recycled from days gone by are not cheap and the value of these items is increasing. Hip-hop culture has infiltrated jewelry design and wearers with 'Bling-Bling' style of large, elaborate diamond and gold jewelry and pendants as a statement of affluence and status. The entire human history of jewelry making is known, excavated and documented, nothing is taboo and styles are recovered and fashion trends follow, making modern jewelry wear the choice of the consumer. Dr. Mark Clayson
